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 Family name and good looks alone?
Within the 2010 Pinarello range the FP7 is 3rd from the top and sold as a complete bike only. The engineering, finish, build kit and price would have the Fp7 as the flagship bike in many other brands. But, can the FP7 hold it's own in the top tier of road bikes for 2010, or is it relying on the family name to get into the club?
The FP7 comes mostly built from the factory in Asia and is easily put together. Cables are cut and handlebar wrapped. Quite a departure from the way Prince and Dogma arrive. At first I was not OK with this, but less than 2 hours later the bike was ready to ride and everything was exactly the way I wanted it to be. Small things matter to me, like gear cables that are run to long. It seems apparent that whoever is running the show for Pinarello in the factory outside of Italy feels the same way.
Where the rubber meets the road
When you jump on a new bike there is that out of the driveway feeling where you already know what you are going to know. On the FP7, I got that immediate feeling this will be a fantastic race bike and weeks later I still felt the same. The FP7 sprints very well, it's a bike that makes the rider feel confident when out of the saddle sprinting hard. I believe it has more to do with the Pinarello geometry than the 46HM3K carbon (46HM tensile strength of carbon used and 3K the fabric weave).
Where the ass meets the saddle
Not sure how this happens but for me Pinarello is the bike brand that is able to combine performance and comfort like no other, the FP7 continues this tradition. For a bike that sprints this well the FP7 is comfortable to ride. I said this in the review of the Dogma and its the same for the Fp7 just not as pronounced. Pinarello designs and builds bikes to be race bikes, unlike other brands, they do not specialize in making bikes for the Saturday group ride. Fortunately for Pinarello owners, the designers at Pinarello understand the need for comfort not only performance. It's more than performance that helped Indurain make 5 successful trips to Paris and Pettachi show everyone clean heals in San Remo.
When gravity takes hold
Complete built with SRAM Red and Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels the FP7 is 16lbs. This is not exactly a good weight for a top tier racing bike. If you are a weight weenie this bike is just not going to work but if your focus is performance then the overall ride quality of the FP7 will be what you remember. The MOst carbon wrapped alloy handlebars could be swapped out to save some weight and also the Most Leopard saddle has some real beefy cromolly rails that could go. The unpainted frame weight is 1050grams.
OK how does it ride?
Holds a straight line in the wind, keeps it's line in the corners, accelerates like a rocket and all that good stuff. The characteristics of the top of the line Pinarello bikes can be felt in the Fp7. Take the same materials, groupset, wheels, components and put them together without the Pinarello design, geometry and manufacturing experience and you will not get the same ride. The Pinarello FP7 upholds the family name and does it with the style and grace.
by Ward Bates
From friction downtube shifters to integrated electronic "shifting by wire." It's been a definite progression.
I think it's safe to say that I've ridden almost every shift mechanism in the last 30 years. My first real bike was a Takara with Suntour stem mounted friction shifting. Then, a Trek with Campy friction shifting on the downtube. Then, on to a Dave Scott Centurion Ironman with Shimano's (at the time) radical new Indexed downtube shifters. Whoa! Then I remember getting a Trek with Shimano 600 integrated shift/brake levers when they first hit the market. Whoa, again! Even more radical! "What's so hard about reaching down to shift? Why would would you need to shift in a sprint, anyways?" Looking back, the initial response to integrated shift levers was absurd . . . .
That gets us to the mid-90s where I stuck with Shimano for a while before giving Campy 10sp a shot and found that I really liked it due to the more solid feel and shifting. Although, I still liked being able to "pistol grip" the Shimano lever tops for a my best Euro-Pro impression. Then, it was back to Dura Ace 7800 for a season. Then, to SRAM Red for the last year or so. At this point, I've ridden the Campy 11sp groups, but I think that's the only group that I haven't actually owned.
Somewhere in the middle of all that (mid-90s, I think) was Mavic's attempt at electronic shifting. First it was Zapp, then Mektronic. I clearly remember the shifting being very good, when it worked. There seemed to be a little problem with reliability in the rain that they never really got sorted out. The ergos of the Mektronic levers were a bit odd at the time, but strangely similar to the current Campy 11sp . . . .
So here we are in 2009 and Shimano's new Di2 group is here. My initial thoughts after reading the early announcements were, "Yeah, I remember Mavic's stuff . . . I just don't trust electronics . . . What if I get electrocuted in the rain?" But then I came to my senses and thought, like so many others, "Maybe this is the secret! Maybe these pesky cable actuated systems have been holding me back all these years! With this new stuff, my pro career is a reality!"
 At our shop, we have both an Orbea Opal with the Di2 stuff and also my new Pinarello Prince Limited Edition that was designed for the Di2 group. All wires are internally routed and it's just a beautiful implementation. The Orbea is just a stock frame and the Di2 kit for that is probably what most people would end up with unless they bought a Di2 specific bike, like the Prince Di2. The wiring on the Orbea is pretty simple and Shimano provides this neat little tape that works quite well at securing the wires to the downtube and chainstays, without looking bad at all. I think that I'd use some strategically placed SuperGlue and just glue the wire directly to the frame once I was happy with the placement. To each his own, though.
 On either bike, the battery pack is discreetly mounted just below the bottle cage on a secure metal "thing," as seen in the photo, and it's probably lighter than most small flip cell phones. Charge time is a true 1.5 hours as Shimano says. Mileage estimates from Shimano are in the 600-1000 mile range depending on how much shifting is done. I'm only on about mile 300, but I'll update this when I actually see the battery low warning light. At that point, it's supposed to have about 150 miles left in it. When it's getting ready to completely die, the front derailleur stops working first and then you have 50 shifts left in the rear derailleur. That's a lot, actually. Unless it goes dead on me midway through next year's Paris-Roubaix or Milan-San Remo, I'll probably make it home okay. If it costs me the win in either of those races, though, I'll be quite pissed.
The Feel:
At first grasp, the Di2's ergonomics are, to me, the best out there. The hoods and levers are quite different from the DA 7900 levers. They seem to be a bit longer on the tops, which provides a bigger flat section. They are definitely smaller in diameter and feel more like the 7800 levers when you hold them. I find it interesting that when given the option, Campy and Shimano both went with a low volume shifter/hood. The new Dura Ace 7900 and SRAM levers are both good, but are definitely larger and I've got to say that I prefer the smaller, even with my large hands. The front of the lever has more of a 7800ish protrusion that allows that "pistol grip" position with more control. The brake lever has a very nice shape that is very easily actuated from the hoods and is right there at your fingertips when you are in the drops. Even a woman with very small hands would be pleased with the reach on these levers while in the drops. The brake calipers on the 7900 set are so good that they can have the closer reach and still have plenty of room for braking lever travel. It's pretty cool.
Coming from SRAM Red most recently, I had very few problems with getting used to Di2's lever/button placement. The single lever action of SRAM Red is very similar to Di2s button setup and the location and "throw" of the levers/buttons is almost the same. I can see where moving from Campy or even Shimano's other groups would require some adjustment, though. Still, I have to say that I had no problems with missing shifts by hitting the wrong button as I've read in some other reviews. My guess is that those reviewers only rode it for a minute or two around the parking lot with the rep standing there sweating and chewing his/her fingers while praying that it didn't get crashed.
On the Road:
So here's the part you really care about -- The shifting on this stuff is absolutely the best there is. This stuff shifts dead-on EVERY SINGLE TIME. It may not be "quicker" in actual time, but it's so precise that it doesn't matter.
The actual motion and thought process to shift is no different than any of the other groupos, so that's really a non-issue. You still feel like you are riding a bike. However, you won't find yourself getting frustrated with missed shift while starting up a climb or not being able to get in your big ring while cresting a hill or not being able to get in your little ring while approaching an intersection. It just doesn't happen. Because there is an actual motor in both the front and rear derailleurs, both are able to detect how much load is on the chain and it adjusts the shift accordingly and it always shifts. You hit the button, you barely hear the motor, and then you are in the gear. Every time.
The shifting in the rear is just elegant and spot on. The shifting up front is downright cool. Not that you'd ever really need to do this, but you can stand up and sprint in the little ring, hit the shift button, and be on your big blade without a hitch. The only thing you'll notice is that it just gets harder to pedal all of a sudden. No grinding at all. When going from big to little blade, the derailleur has more finesse to it and can actually complete the shift under both higher and lower loads than with a cable. And because the motor moves the derailleur instead of just "dropping it" suddenly, there seems to be much less chance to drop a chain on the inside. Again, it doesn't seem to shift faster, but the shifts are so secure every time that I think you will ride faster.
Once of the neatest things that you'll experience with Di2 is the auto-trim of the front derailleur. With only an up and down button, there really isn't any way to trim it. So, the front derailleur actually trims itself while you ride. Little x little or big x big, there is never any rub. The derailleurs know their relative positions and sync themselves up accordingly. How do it know? I don't know, but it does.
 Also to note is the "adjustment on the fly" feature of the rear derailleur. Once the mechanical limit screws are set, just like an "old school derailleur," fine adjustment takes place via the levers themselves. It's nothing that can't be done with an old fashioned barrel adjuster on the downtube, but it's much easier and much more accurate. You simply press a button on the tiny control box that hangs on your front brake cable housing (this is also where the battery warning light is and is very easy to see and access) to start the adjustment. A light comes on that indicates you are in adjustment mode and then you simply pedal and tap the shift buttons until the noise goes away. It doesn't seem to matter what gear you do this in, but I better double check the manual at some point. Then, when all is quiet, you press the little control button to get out of adjustment mode and you are done. I swapped wheels and the cassette alignment must have been off just a bit, but it took me literally 3 seconds to adjust the derailleur to that wheel - and this is while I was riding.
Pros:
- Best shifting performance out there.
- Lever ergonomics are great. Very much like the ever so popular Dura Ace 7800 group.
- Unique.
Cons:
- Expensive at roughly $4800 for the entire group (cranks, chain, cassette, and brake calipers included).
- Not the lightest group. Not the heaviest, but for the weight weenies, the extra ounce will hurt.
- Risk of electronic failure. I'm not sure it's any greater than the risk of breaking a cable on an older derailleur, but it's a bit too soon to really say that, though.
I'm tired, so I'm not going to spend any time discussing the cranks and brake calipers since they are the same as the regular 7900 stuff. They are very, very good and there are plenty of reviews out there, so let Google be your friend and go forth.
Ward Bates
Glory Cycles
ward@glorycycles.com
Update:
I've been riding the Di2 stuff for 5 months now and every day, I'm still impressed by it. No adjustments, not a single missed shift. Nothing. The battery is lasting me about 1200 miles in heavy rolling hills (lots of shifting). The stuff simply is incredible and because it makes it so easy to shift perfectly every time, I think you'll actually shift more and be in the correct gear more often.
 It looks like a Prince but it's not made in Italy. The complete bike ($3300) is significantly less than a Prince frame ($4500), but how much Pinarello blood is left in it's veins?
More than enough. The FP3 will not disappoint even the most hardcore Pinarello fan.
Cut to it: The Pinarello FP3 is a smooth riding bike. It has the feel of a Prince without the snap. It's not as light and does not have the stiffness out of the saddle, yet it is a fantastic bike in it's own right. Comparing it to the Prince or FP7 is not exactly fair, but when compared to other bikes in the $3000-4000 range, it's going to shine. The Pinarello geometry, oversized bottom bracket, and Onda fork are proven features that make the FP3 one of the best in it's price range.
Pinarello builds race bikes, it's always been their objective. Somehow, they manage to make them ride comfortably, as well, and the FP3 is no exception. It is very well balanced out of the saddle and gives the rider confidence to commit entirely to a full-on sprint. Yet, it is smooth and steady when driven hard in the saddle.
 Up Close:
The finish is good, but once again it cannot be compared to the finish of a Prince. The graphics are stunning and the colors make sense in an Italian design sort of way. The white/red/silver test bike really
stood out and, after a week or so, I was sure this is one of my all time favorite looking bikes.
MOst Components:
The Pinarello FP3 uses MOst components wherever possible. Bars, stem, post, saddle, and brakes. Not only do they look great and perfectly match the bike but they work well. The brakes are made by FSA and feel solid with the SRAM levers. By the way, white brake calipers show dirt very easily, something I did not know. I was very impressed by the MOst Handlebar, it's ergo bend was at exactly the right angle for my wrists and gave a good position in, and out, of the saddle. The Carbon/Alloy stem was adequately stiff, so no need for any changes to the cockpit. The seatpost is also alloy wrapped in carbon, but its 2 bolt fastening system is not the best. It's functional and easy on the eye but something that might need to be changed if you were racing this bike hard. The MOst Leopard saddle has to be changed out. It's an OEM saddle, which in my mind is just a stand-in for a real saddle. Not that it's worse than any other OEM saddle, but the Leopard saddle is not going to cut it, if you plan on putting some miles on the FP3.
Group Options:
In the last year, I have ridden the FP3 with Campy, Shimano Ultegra, Shimano 7900, and SRAM Force/Rival, all 4 are great builds and change the character of a bike somewhat. The Campy bike is classic and the most stylish, while the two Shimano options ride the smoothest. The SRAM bike is the one to look at if you want to race the FP3. The Rival crank is the only component that would need to be replaced if you wanted a no compromise race bike. The crank is flexy and while under pressure I can get it to rub the front dérailleur -not good.
Wheels:
The Fulcrum Racing 5 are great wheels, as long as you don't have to race on them. This is the one area you could make a big improvement to the FP3. Reliable and cool looking, but heavy and slow. Not a problem if you have a nice pair of deep section carbons stashed away, but as the only wheels for this bike, you might consider paying for a upgrade before you roll this baby off the floor. Let's face it, this bike just looks cool with deep carbon wheels.
The Verdict:
With its heritage aside, the Pinarello FP3 can hold it's own as a fantastic riding bike at a fair price. When considering the added value passed down through it's shared technology with one of the world's best bikes, it becomes a fantastic value in a great looking package.
P.S. I popped-a-wheelie on this bike and it was pretty darn fun. *****Five pop-a-wheelies up, if it was a rating thing.
Should you consider Road Tubeless for you next wheelset? The short answer: Yes
 The Tubular vs. Clincher debate has been raging for years, but in my garage road tubeless won by a landslide.
I am sold. Smoother, faster and more reliable.
The only drawback I see is the limited selection of tubeless wheels and tires. This will change, every industry insider I talk to is either committed to or working on the new format.
What is Road Tubeless?
Like a motorcar tire, there is no inner tube. Tire and rim form a seal and hold air. For this to work a tubeless specific tire and rim are needed.
Can I run tubeless on my existing non-tubeless wheels?
Although possible I do not recommend it. I experimented with this and the ride quality was great however, it's dangerous. Using a Vittoria open corsa cx with stans no tubes on my American Classic Hurricanes, the rear tire came off while I was descending a small hill. Like my father said "I've done it all, now you don't have to try it".
Is Road Tubeless safe? My experience with road tubeless is that it's equally safe yet more reliable than using a tube. Tubeless clinchers have beefed up beads that sit better in specialy designed rims. The absence of the tube means it's less likley a tire is incorrectly mounted as is often the case with a tube.
Is Road Tubeless puncture resistant? The tires have the same puncture resistance as other road tires, but the ability to use a puncture proofing sealant reduces the chances of a flat from small penetrations. Moreover, the absence of a tube eliminates the possibility of a flat from a defective tube or a pinch flat. Also, the Hutchinson fix-a-flat is a fantastic first line of defense when on a group or century ride. You could be back up and riding without removing the wheel from the bike. In 7 months of testing the 3 Hutchinson models Fusion, Atom and Intense, I have not had a single flat. Coincidence?
How do they feel on the road? Very smooth and fast, it's noticeable and the rougher the road the more noticeable it is. Tubeless rolls with a different sound, similar to a carbon tubular wheel, they resonate and sound hollow. Without a tube you can run them at 10-20 pounds less. This makes them feel even more supple and improves cornering and grip in the wet and on the dirt. This is a upgrade that you can notice and it's not like ceramic bearings or Cerveloesq frame aerodynamics that require a good day, a tailwind and a smooth road.
What do you have to carry for flats on the road?
Hutchinson Fast Air Repair. Good for almost all flats but in the event of a large cut you are in the same situation as a regular clincher, you will need a tube a tire patch and a pump or C02.
Can a tire be repaired after a flat?
Yes most smaller cuts can be repaired using Hutchinson Rep'Air Kit
What wheels are Road Tubeless compatiable?
- Campagnolo Shamal, Eurus, Scirocco 2 way fit
- Fulcrum Racing Zero, Racing One and Racing Three
- Shimano Dura Ace and Ultegra
- Hutchinson Carbon + Tubeless - Made by Corima
What Tires are Road Tubeless capable? - Hutchinson Fusion 2, Atom and Intense
- Maxxis have a tubeless clincher on the way
What to do with the existing wheels once I get hooked on Road Tubeless?
You know it, eBay.
by Scott
Crazy Customer/Guest Writer
If you've been following my posts for anytime, you know I am a Campy fan. Dating back to the early 80's, I've had Campy components on most of my bikes and currently ride 2 bikes with Super Record 11 and them and could not be happier. That said, when something sucks, it just sucks, no matter who makes it. Plain and simple.
Let me set the stage...
I was looking for some cool carbon water bottle cages to complement my Pinarello Prince and Pinarello Dogma. Considering I already spent way too much on the Super Record 11 groupset, I figured what the heck, let's stick with the Super Record theme and go with the cages. I did not ask for any opinions on the cages because I could not imagine them not being good. Hell, they were "Campy," how bad could they be?
 Let me be extremely clear - THEY ABSOLUTELY SUCK! Considering the price of these things (I think they currently retail for something like $170), I thought they would be the bomb. In fact for that price, I thought they should be like a personal Sherpa and know when I'm thirsty and somehow automatically hydrate me. C'mon, that's a lot for cages and for that price they should be great.
Again, let me be clear... THEY SUCK!
Here's the bottom line:
- The bottles bounce around in the cages and if you hit a bump, they can easily pop out. In fact, I have had to put a piece of tape on the inside to help prevent that.
- They are flimsy. The "tabs" on the bottom that keep the bottles from sliding through fall apart right away. No lie, within 6 rides I started noticing the problem. See the pics included in this post to see what I'm talking about. I'm sure the tabs will ultimately break off and the cages will be unusable. What a shame!
- They are expensive. If Campy has the balls to charge this much for these PoS, I have the balls to call them on a bad product.
 Again, I love Campy products, but they missed the boat on these IMHO.
In fact, hey Campy, feel free to send me replacements for the 4 cages I bought if you think I'm off base on this review. I will happily give them another try.
Yours truly,
Scott Levitt
Happy Campy Fan, but unhappy Campy Water Bottle cage fan!
by Scott (aka "iridepinarello")
Guest Writer/Crazy Customer
So I have been searching high and low to find a replacement mini pump for one that I had for years, but fell out of my jersey pocket while out on a ride. I have searched big and small, bought several, and asked around for opinions.
Nothing impressed me, and nothing seemed to really do the job as advertised. Either I couldn't get the pressure anywhere near the PSI that was advertised, or it was so hard to use and even a bit clumsy. I've had the one's that mount straight onto the Presta valve, which in some cases resulted in the valve being bent or broken while the pump was in use.
So I saw this cool Lezyne Mini Pump on a report on one of the cycling website and thought... "yeah right, sounds too good to be true". Anyway, I ordered it and am  happy to say that this pump lives up to what I thought it would.
Here's what's so good about it:
- It's small. Easily and comfortably fits into your jersey pocket (or mounts to your frame with the frame mount it comes with).
- It's light. Extremely light.
- It has a pump hose that attaches to the pump and can be screwed onto your Presta or Shrader valve which makes things 100x easier to use.
- You can EASILY and QUICKLY put 90 PSI into a tire.
 The bottom line is this... if you want a no-hassle mini-pump, I personally think this is the one. Carry it with you and you will always know you will be good to go if your CO2 cartridges run out, or you just need a pump that does the job.
by Ward Bates
I'm not as bad as Clive, but I've had my fair share of shoes. A while back in my pre-shop-owner-rich-and-famous days, I decided to get a set of custom cycling shoes. They were awesome and expensive and ugly. They did feel great under my foot and all was good, until I crashed and tore up the side of the shoe. That's when I learned the downside of custom shoes. It was going to take 2 months to get another pair! So, I decided right then that I would not be buying more custom shoes and that if the shoes were not readily available, they were not for me. That started a search for the perfect shoe and I'd like to thank all that have put up with me through the years.
A little background on me -
My most recent shoe: Specialized S-Works BOA.
Shoes I have had: Sidi Ergo 2s, Rocket 7 Custom, Shimano R300, Shimano R150, Carnacs M7s, Carnac Quartz, and the Diadoras and Duegis of waaaay back.
A little background on DMT -
DMT is an Italian company that has been around since 1978. They originally started as cycling shoes, but have now expanded into soccer and outdoor. In the US, DMT is represented by Gita Sporting Goods (Pinarello, Giordana, and Merckx), who is, to us, one of the best distributors to work with in terms of customer service. We enjoy selling their products because they know what they sell and they stand behind them.
Down to the feet -
At first, I thought it looked sort of plastic-y, but after first impressions, that sort of gets forgotten. Every manufacturer seems to be going to the patent leather look. Sidi, DMT, and Specialized are all using it and Nike uses it in their soccer shoes. I've never noticed it being hotter or breathing less than my old Sidi Ergo 2s and it definitely stays fresh-looking longer. After a little bit of riding, the gloss gets toned down and it's not really noticeable any more, so don't let this steer you away from any shoe that uses it.
First fit of the Prismas is very nice. It's a very supple upper that is sort of surprising given the look of the material. In contrast the Specialized is not nearly as supple. I'd compare the feel of the DMT upper to the Sidi. Very soft and slipper-like. Under foot, the DMT is much different from the Sidi, though. It's definitely a wider shoe, but not Northwave-wide. What's really nice about the Prisma is that it will accommodate a good insole. The Prisma's insoles are good, but every manufacturer seems to skimp in this area. With the DMTs, you actually have the option of using a different insole without losing all the space in the shoe and crushing your foot (hear that Sidi? A little room can be beneficial.)
I have large ankles. I like to call them big and powerful, but others might call them fat. I say French Fry, you say Potato. All the same. Well, these big ankles can make shoes difficult to buy. I'm sure everyone has tried on a shoes and had the uppermost strap or the tongue dig into the front of their ankle. It's uncomfortable and although you think you will forget about it, you don't. Believe me. The DMTs have a nice cut on the tongue and there is none of that digging, so if you have "large and powerful" ankles, this is a shoe to consider.
 Forget the straps -
I'm sold on the BOA or DMT's "BOA-like" cable-enclosure technology that they call RAM+VTR. I think it provides a more uniform enclosure than just three straps and I think the durability has been proven. So you know, it's not a "string." It's a steel cable. And it's replaceable if it ever does break.
 I have in excess of 8,000 miles on Specialized S-Works BOAs this season. The dial has always worked well and I never thought anything about how it could be better, but obviously DMT did. DMT has created the RAM+VTR or "Rotary Activated Monofilament - Variable Tension Regulator." It's a lever-style ratchet instead of a twist dial and is much easier to use, I think. You can get the shoe tighter quicker, and while riding, it's much easier to reach. It's the same as reaching down and tightening any other ratchet-style shoe. With full fingered gloves on or wet fingers (some of us sweat!), the lever is much easier than the dial.
Speedplay-specific sole -
Another nice feature of the DMT Prisma is the option for the Speedplay-specific sole or the standard 3-bolt pattern. The "Look-style" is like just about every other shoe out there, but the Speedplay-specific sole is pretty unique. As you can see in the photos, DMT has made the entire base of the sole the Speedplay adapter plate, so you don't need the Speedplay adapter. This drops the shoe about 6 millimeters closer to the pedal. Pretty cool. Even cooler are some of the numbers that Speedplay has found in the windtunnel. Speedplays are supposedly faster than Looks and the direct mount on the bottom of the sole saves another bunch of seconds. Check it out here at Speedplay's site (now if they would just let us sell Speedplays on line . . . .).
The sole itself is made from 40 ton Toray carbon fiber. Nine layers of carbon are use in all and each layer is at a different angle (0/45/90 degrees) to allow for fine tuning of the stiffness. And it's definitely stiff . . . Toray is considered to be one of the best manufacturers of carbon out there and the 40 ton weave is just a notch below what is used in Pinarello Prince.
On the bike -
I'm into these shoes. They feel great on your foot and very connected to the pedal. Maybe it's in my head, but it does feel more secure than the normal Speedplay mounting system (adapter plate). In terms of fit, the large angle opening is great. No constriction at all there. And the BOA-like enclosure, called RAM+VTR by DMT, is constrictive just like it's supposed to be. On the bike operation of the lever is idiot proof and you can crank these shoes down plenty tight for those all important group ride sprints. Cavendish is seriously lucky that I didn't have these shoes in the early part of the season! The sole is stiff, but not overly stiff like the Shimanos that I have owned. I think it's a perfect mix of stiffness and comfort, which is made possible by the creative layup of the carbon fiber.
During the first 20 minutes of the first ride, I did notice some pressure from the ratchet piece. It wasn't uncomfortable really, but I could feel it and I did wonder if it would be a problem. Within 20 minutes, I had forgotten about it. By the end of the 40 mile ride, I realized that I hadn't thought about it again. After 80 miles in these shoes, I'm very, very happy with them. It's a super comfortable shoe with a lot of good features. And with things like their RAM+VTR ratchet and the direct to sole Speedplay mounting, I think they have even improved on some already good features.
At $375, it's a fairly expensive shoe, but not too bad considering the top of the line carbon sole, the RAM+VTR enclosure system, and the Speedplay-specific sole. If you can't stomach the price, then there is a non-RAM+VTR option with the DMT Radial. It's $265 and has many of the same features of the Prisma.
I'm impressed with the shoes and I'm looking forward to some more mileage in them.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you go with the DMT Speedplay-specific sole, Speedplay’s Stainless Steel Wear Protector Kit, part #13290 is needed, but is not shown in the photos above. Failure to install this part may damage the sole and will void the shoe's warranty. This plate is very thin and does not impact the stack height of the cleat, but it does protect the carbon sole from the pedal making contact with it. Without this plate, the pedal may wear the bottom of the shoe and eventually cause "rocking" of the shoe on the pedal. Glory Cycles will supply this plate at no extra charge.
Cheers,
Ward
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